Knitting Journal - Washcloths for Mom

This fun set of washcloths was sent to my mom for her birthday. I love me a good, useful gift. :)

Pattern: The Baby Fan Dishcloth (FREE)
Needles: US 7
Yarn: Lily Sugar n' Cream (Cottage Twist)

Pattern: Petit French Farmhouse Dishcloth Pattern No. 1 (FREE)
Needles: US 7
Yarn: Lily Sugar n' Cream (Jute and Cottage Twist)

Pattern: Slip-Cloth Dishcloth (See below)
Needles: US 9
Yarn: Lily Sugar n' Cream (Jute and Cottage Twist)

Here’s the pattern:

CO 41 st (or any odd number you prefer) 
Row 1: (With color A) K all stitches 
Row 2: (With color A) K all stitches 
Row 3: (With color B) {K1, slip 1} repeat until last st, K1 
Row 4: (With color B) {K1, wyif slip 1 (as if to purl), wyib} repeat until last st, K1

Repeat these rows ending with 2 knit rows.

Gray Knitted Cowl - Free Pattern

Gray Cowl

Needles: US 8

Yarn: Rowan Wool Cotton – just under 3 skeins

CO 40

Row 1 (RS) – Knit

Row 2 (WS) – Purl

Row 3 (RS) – Knit

Rows 4-12 – k4, (yo, k2tog) to the last 4 stitches, k4

Row 13 (RS) - Knit

Row 14 (WS) – Purl

Row 15 (RS) – Knit

Row 16 (WS) – Knit (this knit row on the wrong side creates the purl ridge on the right side, in the middle of the stockinette segment)

Row 17 (RS) – Knit

Row 18 (WS) – Purl

Row 19 (RS) – Knit

Repeat rows 4-19 until desired length. (I did them 22 times)

Repeat rows 4-12 1 more time

Repeat rows 1-3

BO loosely

Seam the two ends together.

My finished size before blocking was 8" wide and 50" around.

Free Knitting Pattern - Raspberry Baby Washcloth

I just knitted this up for a friend and thought I'd share. The raspberry stitch (also called the Trinity stitch) is really fun and makes a knobby, pretty washcloth.

This makes a small washcloth - 7" x 7" - just right for a baby. If you'd like to add width, just add more stitches in multiples of 4.

RASPBERRY BABY WASHCLOTH

MATERIALS

Lily Sugar n’ Cream yarn – less than 1 ball

US size 7 needles

PATTERN

CO 36 stitches

Rows 1-4: knit

Row 5: k4, purl until there are 4 st left, k4

Row 6: k4, *(k1, p1, k1) into the next st, p3tog, repeat from * until 4 st left, k4

Row 7: k4, purl until there are 4 st left, k4

Row 8: k4, *p3tog, (k1, p1, k1) into the next st, repeat from * until 4 st left, k4

Repeat rows 5-8 until desired length (I did them 8-1/2 times)

K 4 rows

BO

Free Knitting Pattern - Headband Ear Warmer (Thick Yarn Version) NEW AND IMPROVED

Headband Earwarmer (Bulky Yarn Version) - UPDATED, NEW AND IMPROVED (11/23/11)

Materials:

Size 10 knitting needles

Cascade 109 LE Bulky (just under 1 skein) - This yarn is discontinued and sometimes hard to find--(I had some leftover from my Twilight mittens)--but any Bulky yarn will do. You can adjust the pattern for whatever yarn you choose.

Size J Crochet Hook (optional)*

Button

Guage: 5 st/inch (in the rib pattern)
My Final Measurements: 19.5" long and 5" wide at widest part (the length can be adjusted to fit your head size by adding or subtracting rows in the middle section where you're just doing rib and not increasing or decreasing)

Abbreviations:

m1B – From the back, lift loop between stitches with the left needle, purl into the front of loop

m1F – From the front, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into the back of loop

k3tog - knit 3 stitches together

p3tog - purl 3 stitches together 

You will begin with 7 stitches, increase on the middle stitch if the row has an odd number of stitches and between the middle 2 stitches if your row has an even number of stitches. You will increase on every RS row for 6.25”, knit in pattern 4.5”, then decrease back down--again, always on that middle stitch. So if you CO more or less, just always do your increases and decreases at the very center of the row. The easiest way to think about the knitting part of this pattern, is that you only ever do anything different to the stitches right in the center of  a row and the rest is always worked in the rib pattern. So the inc will be right in the center of the row, the dec, also right in the center of the row and everything else is always the rib. 

Directions:

CO 7 st

Row 1 (RS): K1, P1 rib across

Row 2 (WS): P1, K1 across

Row 3: Repeat row 1

Row 4: Repeat row 2

Begin the increase:

Row 5: K1, P1, K1, Pfb, K1, P1, K1 (8 st)

Row 6: P1, K1, P1, K2, P1, K1, P1 (you will have two knit stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row.) 

Row 7: K1, P1, K1, P1, m1F, P1, K1, P1, K1 (9 st)

Row 8: Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 9: K1, P1, K1, P1, Kfb, P1, K1, P1, K1 (10 st)

Row 10: P1, K1, P1, K1, P2, K1, P1, K1, P1 (again, you will have two purl stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row, you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row) 

Row 11: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, m1B, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (11 st)

Row 12: Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Continue to increase in this manner until your work measures 6.25” from the cast on edge. You should have 23 stitches on the needle. (ETA: you are repeating the entire increase from rows 5-12 but just with more stitches to account for before and after the increase which is always right in the middle).

Work in the rib pattern for another 4.75” (until you have 11” from the cast on edge)

Begin the decrease:

Row 1 (RS): [K1, P1] 5x, k3tog, [P1, K1] 5x (21 st)


Row 2 (WS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 3 (RS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches 


Row 4 (WS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 5 (RS): K1, [P1, K1] 4x, P3tog, [K1, P1]  4x, K1

Row 6 (WS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches 


Row 7 (RS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 8 (WS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Continue to decrease in this manner—every other RS row k3tog or p3tog--until you have 7 stitches on the needle. Ending with 4 rows of knitting in the rib pattern. BO leaving the last stitch on the needle.

Crochet Edging*:

Transfer this stitch to a crochet hook. Chain 4-6 stitches and connect them to the beginning of the BO edge (this makes the button loop so size it according to the size of your button). Now start crocheting around the edge. I did 1 single crochet stitch in every st along the edge. Go all the way around the headband, then around the button loop. Secure and cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.

*The entire crochet border is optional. It gives the edge a bit of a decorative look. But the headband looks fine without it. If you choose not to do it, you may want to add a few more stitches to begin with to make the headband wider and knit a few extra rows in the center to make it a bit longer. You’ll also need to make a buttonhole on the row before your bind off.

For The Flower (Crochet):

Large (5 Petal) Flower - Using a J hook, chain 10, join with a SS into first ch to form a ring.

1st Round - (Ch 3, 1 sc into ring) do this 5 times. Join with a sc into first st.

2nd Round - Into each chain loop work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 6 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Fasten off.

Smaller (4 Petal) Flower - Using a J hook, chain 4, join with a ss into first st.

1st Round - (Ch 3, 1 sc into ring) do this 4 times. Join with a sc into first st.

2nd Round - Into each chain loop work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 4 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Fasten off.

Bobble for center (knitted) - with size 10 knitting needles, CO 1, kfb until you have 4 stitches, k 1 row, p 1 row, k 1 row, p 1 row, k 1 row, do not turn, lift second stitch over the first, then the third and then the fourth, fasten off first stitch. Tie the ends together using the tails, stuff a little if desired (I just used one of the tails) and sew around the edges a bit if needed to form the bobble.

Layer the flower together and attach to the head wrap

**PLEASE NOTE - I AM NOT A CROCHETER SO I DO NOT HAVE A CROCHET VERSION OF THE PATTERN.

Free Knitting Pattern - Headband Ear Warmer (Thin Yarn Version) NEW AND IMPROVED

Headband Earwarmer (DK Yarn Version)

Materials:

Size 6 knitting needles

Rowan Wool Cotton (just under 1 skein) - this is a DK yarn

Size J Crochet Hook (optional)*

Button

Guage: 9 st/inch (in the rib pattern)

Abbreviations:

m1B – From the back, lift loop between stitches with the left needle, purl into the front of loop

m1F – From the front, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into the back of loop.

pfb – purl front and back

You will begin with 9 stitches, increase on the middle stitch if the row has an odd number of stitches and between the middle 2 stitches if your row has an even number of stitches. You will increase on every RS row for 7”, knit in pattern 4”, then decrease back down--again, always on that middle stitch. So if you CO more or less, just always do your increases and decreases at the very center of the row. The easiest way to think about the knitting part of this pattern, is that you only ever do anything different to the stitches right in the center of  a row and the rest is always worked in the rib pattern. So the inc will be right in the center of the row, the dec, also right in the center of the row and everything else is always the rib. 

Directions:

CO 9 st

Row 1 (RS): K1, P1 rib across

Row 2 (WS): P1, K1 across

Row 3: Repeat row 1

Row 4: Repeat row 2

Begin the increase:

Row 5: K1, P1, K1, P1, Kfb, P1, K1, P1, K1 (10 st)

Row 6: P1, K1, P1, K1, P2, K1, P1, K1, P1 (you will have two purl stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row.) 

Row 7: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, m1B, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (11 st)

Row 8: Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 9: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, Pfb, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (12 st)

Row 10: P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K2, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1  (again, you will have two knit stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row, you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row) 

Row 11: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, m1F, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (13 st)

Row 12: Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Continue to increase in this manner until your work measures 7” from the cast on edge. You should have 33 stitches on the needle.

Work in the rib pattern for another 4” (until you have 11” from the cast on edge)

Begin the decrease:

Row 1 (RS): [K1, P1] 7x, K1, P3tog, K1, [P1, K1] 7x (31 st)


Row 2 (WS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 3 (RS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches 


Row 4 (WS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 5 (RS): [K1, P1] 7x, K3tog, [P1, K1] 7x (29 st)

Row 6 (WS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches 


Row 7 (RS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 8 (WS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Continue to decrease in this manner—every other RS row k3tog or p3tog the two very middle stitches, with the rest of the stitches being worked in the rib--until you have 9 stitches on the needle. Ending with 4 rows of knitting in the rib pattern. BO leaving the last stitch on the needle.

Crochet Edging*:

Transfer this stitch to a crochet hook. Chain 4-6 stitches and connect them to the beginning of the BO edge (this makes the button loop so size it according to the size of your button). Now start crocheting around the edge. I did 1 single crochet stitch in every st along the edge. Go all the way around the headband, then around the button loop. Secure and cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.

*The entire crochet border is optional. It gives the edge a bit of a decorative look. But the headband looks fine without it. If you choose not to do it, you may want to add a few more stitches to begin with to make the headband wider and knit a few extra rows in the center to make it a bit longer. You’ll also need to make a buttonhole on the row before your bind off.

Add whatever embellishment you choose. (The one pictured is from Susan B. Anderson in Itty Bitty Hats.) Or I've added a crocheted flower to the Bulky Yarn Version you might like to try.

Free Knitting Pattern - Peyton's Mini Purses

These are so simple and fun to make. They are the perfect size to hold a gift card. It's a fun way to give a gift card instead of a boring old envelope. Throw the card in and some chocolate and you've got every girl's best friend. They are also the right size for a cell phone, lipstick and credit card--perfect for a night out! Little girls love these too. They are the perfect size for them!

This pattern is named for my daughter as she knit the first one.

Peyton's Mini Purse Knitting Pattern

Materials:

A small amount of Cascade Magnum

US 17 Knitting Needles

Purse handles - in this case I'm using 3" metal craft hoops (bracelets work well too)

Yarn needle

Fabric for lining the bag (optional)

Embellishments (optional)

CO 10, knit in garter stitch until you have 7”. (Finished piece should be around 5" wide and 7" long").

To Assemble: Attach the handles by whip stitching them to the BO and CO edges. You can do this either before of after you seam the sides. It’s just a matter of preference. I like to do it before so they are less fiddly.

Fold the piece in half so the BO and CO edges meet and become the top of the purse. Seam sides beginning at the bottom and leaving about an inch at the top un-seamed (this makes the bag easier to open).

Line the bag and attach embellishments (buttons, flowers, ribbon, etc). To sew the liner, I just take a piece of fabric around 1" wider and the same length as your knitted piece (in this case 6" x 7"). Sew a 1/2" seam all the way around. Fold in half (right sides together) and seam sides leaving 1" at the top un-seamed.

Variations: This pattern works with any yarn, any gauge just so you end up with a piece that measures around 5” x 7”. If it’s wider than 5”, the bag will have a wider base. If it's shorter than 7" it will look more like a clutch, longer it will look more like a bag than a purse.

For the Tabitha Purse  - CO 18 on size 10 US needles using Lion Brand Homespun knit in garter to 7".

For the Marilyn Purse - CO 11 on size 17 US needles, seed stitch until I had 7".

For the Coco Purse - CO 14 on size 15 US needles and added a cable down the center

For the Reggie Purse - CO 17 size 10 US needles with novelty yarn (in this case Bernat Boa) and knit for 1” then switch to main yarn (Lion Brand Homespun), knit in seed stitch for 5-1/2” switch back to novelty yarn and knit 1” then BO

T-Shirt Purse - CO 8 on size 15 US needles with t-shirt yarn knit until I had 5" and used 2" rings for the handles

These are just a couple of ideas. The possibilities are endless. 

This pattern is on Ravelry HERE.

If you do make your own, please link back to this blog so I can see your beautiful handiwork!!

Free Knitting Pattern - Headband Ear Warmer (Thick Yarn Version)

I have written a newer, simpler pattern. Please click HERE or see the sidebar on the right and click on the new pattern. (The decrease is easier) :)


PLEASE NOTE - I AM NOT A CROCHETER SO I DO NOT HAVE A CROCHET VERSION OF THE PATTERN.

1/31/10 UPDATE: There have been a few questions so I'm adding very specific directions for the increase and decrease rows. I've also added some tips HERE. Please let me know if you have any questions. I'm always happy to help!

Headband Earwarmer (Bulky Yarn Version)

Materials:

Size 10 knitting needles

Cascade 109 LE Bulky (just under 1 skein) - This yarn is discontinued and sometimes hard to find--(I had some leftover from my Twilight mittens)--but any Bulky yarn will do. You can adjust the pattern for whatever yarn you choose.

Size J Crochet Hook (optional)*

Button

Guage: 5 st/inch (in the rib pattern)

Abbreviations:

m1B – From the back, lift loop between stitches with the left needle, purl into the front of loop

m1F – From the front, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into the back of loop.

pfb – purl front and back

You  will begin with 7 stitches, increase on the middle stitch on every RS row for 6.25”, knit in pattern 4.5”, then decrease back down--again, always on that middle stitch. 

Directions:

CO 7 st

Row 1 (RS): K1, P1 rib across

Row 2 (WS): P1, K1 across

Row 3: Repeat row 1
Row 4: Repeat row 2


Begin the increase

Row 5: Work in rib until center stitch (on this row it's the 4th stitch), pfb, continue in rib to the end of the row

Row 6: Work in the rib knowing that you will have two knit stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row. 

Row 7: Work in rib until center stitch, m1F, continue in rib to the end of the row

Row 8: Work in the rib pattern

Row 9: Work in rib until center stitch, kfb center st , continue in rib to the end of the row

Row 10: Work in the rib knowing that you will have two purl stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row--again, this is fine as you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row. 

Row 11: Work in rib until the center, m1B, continue in rib to the end of the row.

Row 12: Work in the rib pattern

Repeat rows 5-12 until your work measures 6.25” from the cast on edge. You’ll have 23 stitches on the needle. (If you have a different number of stitches than this, it's fine, but please see my TIPS HERE because the type of decrease you do depends solely on what your middle stitch is--knit or purl. I also always suggest that you end your increase with a row with an odd number of stitches--it makes the first row of the decrease much easier. So if you've got an even number, do one more increase).

Work in the rib pattern for 4.75” (until you have 11” from the cast on edge)

Begin the decrease

Row 1: (THIS ROW IS WORKED ASSUMING YOUR MIDDLE STITCH IS A PURL STITCH, IF IT'S A KNIT STITCH, DO ROWS 5-8, THEN 1-4) Work in rib until 2 stitches before the center stitch, p2tog, kfb (this is the center stitch), p2tog, continue in the rib ( on this row, you've decreased 2 and made 1. This way the decrease follows the increase in shape and size.

Row 2: work in the basic rib pattern knowing that you will have two purl stitches next to each other in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will knit the two of them together on the next row. 

Row 3: Work in rib until the two center stitches, k2tog, continue in the rib pattern
Row 4: Work in rib pattern
Row 5: Work in rib until 2 stitches before the center stitch, k2tog, pfb (this is the center stitch), k2tog, continue in the rib
Row 6: work in the basic rib pattern knowing that you will have two knit stitches next to each other in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will purl the two of them together on the next row. 

Row 7: Work in rib until the two center stitches, p2tog, continue in the rib pattern
Row 8: Work in rib pattern

Work decrease rows 1-8 until you have 7 stitches on the needle. BO leaving the last stitch on the needle. Transfer this stitch to a crochet hook. Chain 4-6 stitches and connect them to the beginning of the BO edge (this makes the button loop so size it according to the size of your button). Now start crocheting around the edge. I did 1 single crochet stitch in every st along the edge. Go all the way around the headband, then around the button loop. Secure and cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.


*The entire crochet border is optional. It gives the edge a bit of a decorative look. But the headband looks fine without it. If you choose not to do it, you may want to add a few more stitches to begin with to make the headband wider and knit a few extra rows in the center to make it a bit longer. You’ll also need to make a buttonhole on the row before your bind off. If you don’t want to deal with either method of creating a button hole, you could just attach some little strings or ribbon at either end and tie them under your hair to wear.

For The Flower:

Large (5 Petal) Flower - Using a J hook, chain 10, join with a SS into first ch to form a ring.

1st Round - (Ch 3, 1 sc into ring) do this 5 times. Join with a sc into first st.

2nd Round - Into each chain loop work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 6 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Fasten off.

Smaller (4 Petal) Flower - Using a J hook, chain 4, join with a ss into first st.

1st Round - (Ch 3, 1 sc into ring) do this 4 times. Join with a sc into first st.

2nd Round - Into each chain loop work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 4 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Fasten off.

Bobble for center - with size 10 knitting needles, CO 1, kfb until you have 4 stitches, k 1 row, p 1 row, k 1 row, p 1 row, k 1 row, do not turn, lift second stitch over the first, then the third and then the fourth, fasten off first stitch. Tie the ends together using the tails, stuff a little if desired (I just used one of the tails) and sew around the edges a bit if needed to form the bobble.

Layer the flower together and attach to the headwrap. 

Free Knitting Pattern - Headband Ear Warmer

I have written a newer, simpler pattern. Please click HERE or see the sidebar on the right and click on the new pattern. (The decrease is easier) :)

01/09/10 UPDATE: Please note that I have added updated pictures with another flower option (same headwrap--new flower). The large flower was made using Susan B. Anderson's Felted Flower pattern from Itty Bitty Hats.

01/22/10 UPDATE: The gauge for this pattern is 9 st per inch, 6 rows per inch. But it is not crucial. You can always adapt this to whatever yarn you are using by casting on more or fewer stitches. I have also posted a pattern for this headwrap using bulky yarn with a crocheted flower if you're interested.

1/31/10 UPDATE: There have been a few questions so I've added some more explanation to the increase and decrease rows in this pattern. Hope this helps. I've also added some tips HERE.  Please contact me with any questions, I'm always happy to help.

Here is the Ravelry Link to this pattern.

**PLEASE NOTE - I AM NOT A CROCHETER SO I DO NOT HAVE A CROCHET VERSION OF THE PATTERN.

This headband is perfect for those brisk morning walks or for taking the kids to school. It's perfect with a ponytail! Below is more a recipe than a pattern. Please feel free to contact me with any questions and link to pictures if you do make one! My 8 year old daughter is modeling the headband. It's a bit more snug on a grown up head. My head is 22" and this headband fits wonderfully! There is a bit of play with the size as you can place the button where you'll need it to be so it fits your head.

Headband Earwarmer

Materials:

Size 6 US knitting needles

Rowan Wool Cotton (just under 1 skein) - this is a DK yarn

Size J Crochet Hook (optional)*

Button

Small shank button (optional - for embellishment flower)

Finished Size:

22.5" long and 4" wide at widest part

Abbreviations:

m1B – From the back, lift loop between stitches with the left needle, purl into the front of loop (this is a bar increase that makes a purl stitch and no hole)

m1F – From the front, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into the back of loop (this is a bar increase that makes a knit stitch and no hole)

pfb – purl front and back

You will begin with 9 stitches, increase on the middle stitch on every RS row for 7”, knit in pattern 4”, then decrease back down--again, always on that middle stitch--for 7".

IMPORTANT NOTE: Don’t get too caught up in the rib pattern right around the decrease or increase stitches. There are times when you’ll have 2 knit stitches together or 2 purl stitches together. They work themselves out on the next inc. or dec. row. And it’s sort of hidden in the inc. and dec. Stick to the rib as best you can. Let the stitches tell you what they want to be.This all sounds much more complicated than it actually is. Once you get into the knitting, you'll see. (*NOTE: I have added more specific instructions as of 1/31/10)

Directions:

CO 9 st

Row 1 (RS): K1, P1 rib across

Row 2 (WS): P1, K1 across

Row 3: Repeat row 1
Row 4: Repeat row 2


Begin increase
Row 5: Work in rib until center stitch (on this row it is the 5th stitch), kfb center st , continue in rib to the end of the row
Row 6: Work in the rib knowing that you will have two purl stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row. 

Row 7: Work in rib until the center, m1B, continue in rib to the end of the row.
Row 8: Work in the rib pattern

Row 9: Work in rib until center stitch, pfb, continue in rib to the end of the row
Row 10: Work in the rib knowing that you will have two knitl stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row--again, this is fine as you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row. 

Row 11: Work in rib until center stitch, m1F, continue in rib to the end of the row
Row 12: Work in the rib pattern

Repeat rows 5-12 until your work measures 7” from the cast on edge. You’ll have 33 stitches on the needle. (If you have a different number of stitches than this, it's fine, but please see my TIPS HERE because the type of decrease you do depends solely on what your middle stitch is--knit or purl. I also always suggest that you end your increase with a row with an odd number of stitches--it makes the first row of the decrease much easier. So if you've got an even number, do one more increase).

Work in the rib pattern for 4” (until you have 11” from the cast on edge)

Begin the decrease

Row 1 of decrease (RS): (THIS ROW IS WORKED ASSUMING YOUR MIDDLE STITCH IS A KNIT STITCH, IF IT'S A PURL STITCH, DO ROWS 5-8, THEN 1-4) Work in rib until 2 stitches before the center stitch, k2tog, pfb (this is the center stitch), k2tog, continue in the rib
Row 2: work in the basic rib pattern knowing that you will have two knit stitches next to each other in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will purl the two of them together on the next row. 
Row 3: Work in rib until the two center stitches, p2tog, continue in the rib pattern
Row 4: Work in rib pattern
Row 5: Work in rib until 2 stitches before the center stitch, p2tog, kfb (this is the center stitch), p2tog, continue in the rib
Row 6: work in the basic rib pattern knowing that you will have two purl stitches next to each other in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will knit the two of them together on the next row. 
Row 7: Work in rib until the two center stitches, k2tog, continue in the rib pattern
Row 8: Work in rib pattern

Work decrease rows 1-8 until you have 9 stitches on the needle. BO leaving the last stitch on the needle.* Transfer this stitch to a crochet hook. Chain 6 stitches and connect them to the beginning of the BO edge (this makes the button loop). Now start crocheting around the edge. I did 2 single crochet stitches in every other st. Go all the way around the headband, then around the button loop. Secure and cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends and sew a button on the opposite end from the button loop.

Add whatever embellishment you choose. (The one pictured was a simple CO tons of stitches, BO several, knitting 2 in between to make “petals”.) Or I've added a crocheted flower to the Bulky Yarn Version you might like to try.

*The entire crochet border is optional. It gives the edge a bit of a decorative look. But the headband looks fine without it. If you choose not to do it, you may want to add a few more stitches to begin with to make the headband wider. You’ll also need to make a buttonhole on the row before your bind off. If you don’t want to deal with either method of creating a button hole, you could just attach some little strings or ribbon at either end and tie them under your hair to wear. (But I will tell you, the button is quite convenient).