Newest (Sort of) Paintings

Some of these were wedding presents, some of them were Christmas presents. So I couldn't blog them until now. But they are all 4 in their proper homes now so here you go...

 

 

 

New Name Sign

This one was made for a sweet returning buyer on ETSY. Isn't this color scheme fun?

Knitting Journal

Got the pattern HERE. I had to make it twice because I didn't quite follow the pattern on the first one, but they are both fun and pretty. Both were done on size US 7's and with Lily Sugar n' Cream yarn.

One of the radiating squares along with a Boxy washcloth were gifts for my sister. I love it when people request more washcloths. It means they liked them and they used them. Yay!

Oh, now this was FUN. I used Cascade Magnum and Gedifra Gigante on size US 15's. I used THIS PATTERN but only did one pom pom since I thought that was a little more boyish. I'll be making more of these I'm sure!

This is a bit of a Frankenstein project. The body I just made up, the eye and feet came from a Rebecca Danger Pattern (Penelope) and the knobbles on his head came from THIS PATTERN. This was so fun to make and my nephew loved it. 

Newest Name Signs

I haven't been making as many as I have in the past, but I do occasionally make them when people contact me directly. These two went in the mail last week.

First Friday Art Class for December 2011 - Christmas Cards

Okay, we got a little crafty this time. I try to the keep the class more art, less craft, but Christmas time lends itself to so many fun crafts. So we did artistic crafts. :)

This month we made 3 Christmas cards. We did paper pieced, mixed media cards.

Here are the cards we made (we started with the most simple and then moved to the more complicated):

Here is the handout for this month explaining all the steps to making these cards:

I'm going to let the handout and the actual cards sort of speak for themselves as far as instruction goes. But I do have a few tips when it comes to paper piecing.

1. Whenever possible, draw your shape on the back of the paper you're using. This way when you cut it out, the front will be nice and clean with no pencil marks on it.
2. Plan before you glue--this was especially true for our Ornament Card. The order on the handout is the order you need to go in to make everything overlap correctly and stay adhered on the card.
3. Make sure your glue extends to the corners. There's nothing worse than making a lovely card only to have the corners curl up because they weren't glued down well.
4. Simple is okay. Simple can be lovely and sophisticated as long as the design is well thought out and done well.

For time's sake I did have some parts of the cards already ready for the girls. I didn't want them to get bogged down with tying bows, cutting ribbon and curling wire.

Here they are hard at work--they look like busy little Christmas elves:

Here are their final creations:

Once again I gave them a starting point and they ran with it and extended beyond my expectations! Their cards were creative, fun and beautiful!

And since it was our Christmas class, we had a little Hot Chocolate Bar (think Salad Bar only LOTS more fun!)

And these little artists even made their hot chocolate beautiful and artistic!

We also played a fun art game called Whatchamadrawit. I found it HERE and it's awesome!!

Fun, fun time. These girls are wonderful!! This was such a fun way to kick off the Christmas season.

See you next month!

Free Knitting Pattern - Headband Ear Warmer (Thick Yarn Version) NEW AND IMPROVED

Headband Earwarmer (Bulky Yarn Version) - UPDATED, NEW AND IMPROVED (11/23/11)

Materials:

Size 10 knitting needles

Cascade 109 LE Bulky (just under 1 skein) - This yarn is discontinued and sometimes hard to find--(I had some leftover from my Twilight mittens)--but any Bulky yarn will do. You can adjust the pattern for whatever yarn you choose.

Size J Crochet Hook (optional)*

Button

Guage: 5 st/inch (in the rib pattern)
My Final Measurements: 19.5" long and 5" wide at widest part (the length can be adjusted to fit your head size by adding or subtracting rows in the middle section where you're just doing rib and not increasing or decreasing)

Abbreviations:

m1B – From the back, lift loop between stitches with the left needle, purl into the front of loop

m1F – From the front, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into the back of loop

k3tog - knit 3 stitches together

p3tog - purl 3 stitches together 

You will begin with 7 stitches, increase on the middle stitch if the row has an odd number of stitches and between the middle 2 stitches if your row has an even number of stitches. You will increase on every RS row for 6.25”, knit in pattern 4.5”, then decrease back down--again, always on that middle stitch. So if you CO more or less, just always do your increases and decreases at the very center of the row. The easiest way to think about the knitting part of this pattern, is that you only ever do anything different to the stitches right in the center of  a row and the rest is always worked in the rib pattern. So the inc will be right in the center of the row, the dec, also right in the center of the row and everything else is always the rib. 

Directions:

CO 7 st

Row 1 (RS): K1, P1 rib across

Row 2 (WS): P1, K1 across

Row 3: Repeat row 1

Row 4: Repeat row 2

Begin the increase:

Row 5: K1, P1, K1, Pfb, K1, P1, K1 (8 st)

Row 6: P1, K1, P1, K2, P1, K1, P1 (you will have two knit stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row.) 

Row 7: K1, P1, K1, P1, m1F, P1, K1, P1, K1 (9 st)

Row 8: Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 9: K1, P1, K1, P1, Kfb, P1, K1, P1, K1 (10 st)

Row 10: P1, K1, P1, K1, P2, K1, P1, K1, P1 (again, you will have two purl stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row, you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row) 

Row 11: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, m1B, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (11 st)

Row 12: Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Continue to increase in this manner until your work measures 6.25” from the cast on edge. You should have 23 stitches on the needle. (ETA: you are repeating the entire increase from rows 5-12 but just with more stitches to account for before and after the increase which is always right in the middle).

Work in the rib pattern for another 4.75” (until you have 11” from the cast on edge)

Begin the decrease:

Row 1 (RS): [K1, P1] 5x, k3tog, [P1, K1] 5x (21 st)


Row 2 (WS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 3 (RS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches 


Row 4 (WS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 5 (RS): K1, [P1, K1] 4x, P3tog, [K1, P1]  4x, K1

Row 6 (WS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches 


Row 7 (RS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 8 (WS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Continue to decrease in this manner—every other RS row k3tog or p3tog--until you have 7 stitches on the needle. Ending with 4 rows of knitting in the rib pattern. BO leaving the last stitch on the needle.

Crochet Edging*:

Transfer this stitch to a crochet hook. Chain 4-6 stitches and connect them to the beginning of the BO edge (this makes the button loop so size it according to the size of your button). Now start crocheting around the edge. I did 1 single crochet stitch in every st along the edge. Go all the way around the headband, then around the button loop. Secure and cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.

*The entire crochet border is optional. It gives the edge a bit of a decorative look. But the headband looks fine without it. If you choose not to do it, you may want to add a few more stitches to begin with to make the headband wider and knit a few extra rows in the center to make it a bit longer. You’ll also need to make a buttonhole on the row before your bind off.

For The Flower (Crochet):

Large (5 Petal) Flower - Using a J hook, chain 10, join with a SS into first ch to form a ring.

1st Round - (Ch 3, 1 sc into ring) do this 5 times. Join with a sc into first st.

2nd Round - Into each chain loop work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 6 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Fasten off.

Smaller (4 Petal) Flower - Using a J hook, chain 4, join with a ss into first st.

1st Round - (Ch 3, 1 sc into ring) do this 4 times. Join with a sc into first st.

2nd Round - Into each chain loop work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 4 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Fasten off.

Bobble for center (knitted) - with size 10 knitting needles, CO 1, kfb until you have 4 stitches, k 1 row, p 1 row, k 1 row, p 1 row, k 1 row, do not turn, lift second stitch over the first, then the third and then the fourth, fasten off first stitch. Tie the ends together using the tails, stuff a little if desired (I just used one of the tails) and sew around the edges a bit if needed to form the bobble.

Layer the flower together and attach to the head wrap

**PLEASE NOTE - I AM NOT A CROCHETER SO I DO NOT HAVE A CROCHET VERSION OF THE PATTERN.

Free Knitting Pattern - Headband Ear Warmer (Thin Yarn Version) NEW AND IMPROVED

Headband Earwarmer (DK Yarn Version)

Materials:

Size 6 knitting needles

Rowan Wool Cotton (just under 1 skein) - this is a DK yarn

Size J Crochet Hook (optional)*

Button

Guage: 9 st/inch (in the rib pattern)

Abbreviations:

m1B – From the back, lift loop between stitches with the left needle, purl into the front of loop

m1F – From the front, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into the back of loop.

pfb – purl front and back

You will begin with 9 stitches, increase on the middle stitch if the row has an odd number of stitches and between the middle 2 stitches if your row has an even number of stitches. You will increase on every RS row for 7”, knit in pattern 4”, then decrease back down--again, always on that middle stitch. So if you CO more or less, just always do your increases and decreases at the very center of the row. The easiest way to think about the knitting part of this pattern, is that you only ever do anything different to the stitches right in the center of  a row and the rest is always worked in the rib pattern. So the inc will be right in the center of the row, the dec, also right in the center of the row and everything else is always the rib. 

Directions:

CO 9 st

Row 1 (RS): K1, P1 rib across

Row 2 (WS): P1, K1 across

Row 3: Repeat row 1

Row 4: Repeat row 2

Begin the increase:

Row 5: K1, P1, K1, P1, Kfb, P1, K1, P1, K1 (10 st)

Row 6: P1, K1, P1, K1, P2, K1, P1, K1, P1 (you will have two purl stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row.) 

Row 7: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, m1B, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (11 st)

Row 8: Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 9: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, Pfb, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (12 st)

Row 10: P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K2, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1  (again, you will have two knit stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row, you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row) 

Row 11: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, m1F, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 (13 st)

Row 12: Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Continue to increase in this manner until your work measures 7” from the cast on edge. You should have 33 stitches on the needle.

Work in the rib pattern for another 4” (until you have 11” from the cast on edge)

Begin the decrease:

Row 1 (RS): [K1, P1] 7x, K1, P3tog, K1, [P1, K1] 7x (31 st)


Row 2 (WS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 3 (RS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches 


Row 4 (WS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 5 (RS): [K1, P1] 7x, K3tog, [P1, K1] 7x (29 st)

Row 6 (WS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches 


Row 7 (RS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 8 (WS): Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Continue to decrease in this manner—every other RS row k3tog or p3tog the two very middle stitches, with the rest of the stitches being worked in the rib--until you have 9 stitches on the needle. Ending with 4 rows of knitting in the rib pattern. BO leaving the last stitch on the needle.

Crochet Edging*:

Transfer this stitch to a crochet hook. Chain 4-6 stitches and connect them to the beginning of the BO edge (this makes the button loop so size it according to the size of your button). Now start crocheting around the edge. I did 1 single crochet stitch in every st along the edge. Go all the way around the headband, then around the button loop. Secure and cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.

*The entire crochet border is optional. It gives the edge a bit of a decorative look. But the headband looks fine without it. If you choose not to do it, you may want to add a few more stitches to begin with to make the headband wider and knit a few extra rows in the center to make it a bit longer. You’ll also need to make a buttonhole on the row before your bind off.

Add whatever embellishment you choose. (The one pictured is from Susan B. Anderson in Itty Bitty Hats.) Or I've added a crocheted flower to the Bulky Yarn Version you might like to try.

First Friday Art Class for November 2011 - Just Doodlin'

This class was all about doodling. We began by discussing the why's of doodling.

So why doodle?

1) It's fun!
2) It keeps your brain and your hand practicing drawing
3) Even though you don't notice it, while you doodle you are constantly working on placement and design
4) It can bring out your creative side because it's so free and relaxed
5) You never know when a doodle will turn into an idea for a great painting

I based the class on the following videos from two very gifted artists:

Dangerous Doodles - Cumulus, Head in the Clouds
Dangerous Doodles - Spikies
Dangerous Doodles - Flowers are Fun
#5 Bloknote TV - How to Doodle

We began by drawing 3 squares on our paper. First we drew the clouds, then the spikies and then the flower. Last but not least, we worked on Bloknote's doodling idea of 'e's and swirls turning into lovely designs that you can add to anything.

I saved the handouts for when it was time to go because I felt that the girls seeing the end result would intimidate and distract them from the drawing. So I never did tell them what we were drawing or showed them the final drawing until they were finished too. We all followed the steps together. The handouts were more for a reminder to take home and practice with.

Because it could be intimidating to see this:

They may think they can't do it. So when we break it down into small parts and all go through the drawing process together, they are surprised by what they can do.

Here are the two handouts for today's class:

We all drew together today so I didn't get a chance to take many pictures, but I did get a few...

 Look at them all so intent and hard at work. Is it any wonder why I love these girls?

Keep doodling! See you next month.

Knitting Update - Lots of Gifts

We have a lot of late summer/fall birthdays in my family. Here are a few of the things that were mailed out recently to my lovies.

For two of my nieces. More Pookies. I LOVE them! Fun to make, fun to give away to little ones. They are always a hit.

Pookies

Pattern: Pookies from Barbara Prime

Needle Size: US 6

Yarn: Caron Simply Soft, Lily Sugar n'Cream and Cascade 220

This hat, modeled by my daughter, was actually for my sister's birthday. It was hard to part with. I need to make one for me. 

Antelope Hat for B

Pattern: Antelope Hat by Kelly McClure (FREE!)

Needles: US 6 and 8

Yarn: Cascade 220 Heathers

This little number is for my other sister. She saw something like this on Pinterest and put in a request. I altered the pattern a bit by placing a snap under the button instead of letting you button it wherever you like. It's a great pattern and done in this yarn, it's SOOO yummy!

Natalie's Cowl
Pattern: Fear of Comittment Cowl by Julie Weisenberger (FREE!!)
Needles: US 11
Yarn: Malabrigo Yarn Merino Worsted


And then there's this hat...

It's a great pattern. I love the stitch pattern on the body of the hat. It's very cool. But I think my yarn was just too bulky. It's so thick and it's just WAY too hot for where I live.

Shroom

Pattern: Shroom by Lee Juvan (FREE!!)

Needles: US 11

Yarn: Brown Sheep Burly Spun

Look What I Got!

A friend of mine is making these. She's charging $42. If you're interested, I'm sure she'd mail them if you'll pay shipping. Let me know and I'll tell you how to get in touch with her. She's making Christmas ones too.

They are SOOO cute. I love mine!!

First Friday Art Class for October 2011 - Drawing People

We got right down to business today. We're drawing people--fun, funky people. We are not doing life-like portraits. Today it's all about F U N! 

I explained to the girls that generally when I draw my funky people, I make the eyes uneven and different sizes, I play around with lip placement, I make really wide noses. It's more fun that way. There is no pressure for perfection.

We began by drawing faces together. I drew them on a large paper in front and they copied what I drew. This is a great way to learn and gain confidence.  

I used eyes, noses, lips, etc. from the Idea Worksheet below. I told the girls before hand which ones we'd be using (these eyes, this nose, those lips, etc.). They were free to modify and also play around with placement. 

Here are the 3 drawings I demonstrated and the girls copied:

Here is the Idea Worksheet with the features that we used circled--anything circles in red we used on face #1, blue is #2, green is #3: 

And even though we drew together, everyone's drawing is still their own! For instance, we noticed that even drawing faces using the same features, every girl's drawing had it's own unique personality and style. A lot of that is determined with placement of features, especially the eyes.

We observed that if you put the eyes really high up on the head, you get a more childlike, sweetness to your person. Whereas if the eyes are very low, it can have a shy reserved look to it. This is a great place to experiment and play around. Let your drawing "talk" to you and tell you about it's personality. 

SIDE NOTE: This sounds funny, but your drawings will tell you about themselves. When I started this drawing (pictured below), I had no idea what direction I was heading in, but once I got the face done, I just felt like she seemed a bit impatient and snappish. Then the rest of the drawing fell into place...

Once we had drawn 3 or 4 faces together, I turned them loose on the 10 Faces worksheet below. The ideas is to draw 10 faces somewhat quickly using features from the idea worksheet--OR NOT. Totally up to them. Try different sizes and placement. For instance on one face, do a tiny mouth and big eyes. On the next one do large, luscious lips and small eyes. They were also free to turn the page over if they didn't want a circle head.

Play around until you find one that's your favorite. This one will be used on the final masterpiece.

I did manage to take a few pictures over their shoulders while they worked.

I am constantly amazed by their creativity and pure artistic skill. They may doubt that they have it, but it's there!

Once a favorite head was chosen, they added color with colored pencils. (Generally at this point in my work, I add paint, but I knew we'd be pressed for time so I chose colored pencils for this project.) Once the color was done, they could go over their lines with a thin ink pen or just go straight to cutting out their head.

Then they chose patterned paper to be the body. We kept the bodies very simple today since our emphasis was more of faces. I basically suggested just cutting out a triangle to be the dress then doing stick figure-esque arms and legs. They were free to add any background items, accessories, pets, etc. 

Here are some pictures of the girls with their finished masterpiece. (We had a couple girls that had to leave early--I'm excited to see what they do at home...)

And a close up of one of the finished masterpieces--see, wonderful, right?

This is a great bunch of girls and I am having so much fun! I'll see you again next month!