Free Knitting Pattern - Headband Ear Warmer

I have written a newer, simpler pattern. Please click HERE or see the sidebar on the right and click on the new pattern. (The decrease is easier) :)

01/09/10 UPDATE: Please note that I have added updated pictures with another flower option (same headwrap--new flower). The large flower was made using Susan B. Anderson's Felted Flower pattern from Itty Bitty Hats.

01/22/10 UPDATE: The gauge for this pattern is 9 st per inch, 6 rows per inch. But it is not crucial. You can always adapt this to whatever yarn you are using by casting on more or fewer stitches. I have also posted a pattern for this headwrap using bulky yarn with a crocheted flower if you're interested.

1/31/10 UPDATE: There have been a few questions so I've added some more explanation to the increase and decrease rows in this pattern. Hope this helps. I've also added some tips HERE.  Please contact me with any questions, I'm always happy to help.

Here is the Ravelry Link to this pattern.

**PLEASE NOTE - I AM NOT A CROCHETER SO I DO NOT HAVE A CROCHET VERSION OF THE PATTERN.

This headband is perfect for those brisk morning walks or for taking the kids to school. It's perfect with a ponytail! Below is more a recipe than a pattern. Please feel free to contact me with any questions and link to pictures if you do make one! My 8 year old daughter is modeling the headband. It's a bit more snug on a grown up head. My head is 22" and this headband fits wonderfully! There is a bit of play with the size as you can place the button where you'll need it to be so it fits your head.

Headband Earwarmer

Materials:

Size 6 US knitting needles

Rowan Wool Cotton (just under 1 skein) - this is a DK yarn

Size J Crochet Hook (optional)*

Button

Small shank button (optional - for embellishment flower)

Finished Size:

22.5" long and 4" wide at widest part

Abbreviations:

m1B – From the back, lift loop between stitches with the left needle, purl into the front of loop (this is a bar increase that makes a purl stitch and no hole)

m1F – From the front, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into the back of loop (this is a bar increase that makes a knit stitch and no hole)

pfb – purl front and back

You will begin with 9 stitches, increase on the middle stitch on every RS row for 7”, knit in pattern 4”, then decrease back down--again, always on that middle stitch--for 7".

IMPORTANT NOTE: Don’t get too caught up in the rib pattern right around the decrease or increase stitches. There are times when you’ll have 2 knit stitches together or 2 purl stitches together. They work themselves out on the next inc. or dec. row. And it’s sort of hidden in the inc. and dec. Stick to the rib as best you can. Let the stitches tell you what they want to be.This all sounds much more complicated than it actually is. Once you get into the knitting, you'll see. (*NOTE: I have added more specific instructions as of 1/31/10)

Directions:

CO 9 st

Row 1 (RS): K1, P1 rib across

Row 2 (WS): P1, K1 across

Row 3: Repeat row 1
Row 4: Repeat row 2


Begin increase
Row 5: Work in rib until center stitch (on this row it is the 5th stitch), kfb center st , continue in rib to the end of the row
Row 6: Work in the rib knowing that you will have two purl stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row. 

Row 7: Work in rib until the center, m1B, continue in rib to the end of the row.
Row 8: Work in the rib pattern

Row 9: Work in rib until center stitch, pfb, continue in rib to the end of the row
Row 10: Work in the rib knowing that you will have two knitl stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row--again, this is fine as you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row. 

Row 11: Work in rib until center stitch, m1F, continue in rib to the end of the row
Row 12: Work in the rib pattern

Repeat rows 5-12 until your work measures 7” from the cast on edge. You’ll have 33 stitches on the needle. (If you have a different number of stitches than this, it's fine, but please see my TIPS HERE because the type of decrease you do depends solely on what your middle stitch is--knit or purl. I also always suggest that you end your increase with a row with an odd number of stitches--it makes the first row of the decrease much easier. So if you've got an even number, do one more increase).

Work in the rib pattern for 4” (until you have 11” from the cast on edge)

Begin the decrease

Row 1 of decrease (RS): (THIS ROW IS WORKED ASSUMING YOUR MIDDLE STITCH IS A KNIT STITCH, IF IT'S A PURL STITCH, DO ROWS 5-8, THEN 1-4) Work in rib until 2 stitches before the center stitch, k2tog, pfb (this is the center stitch), k2tog, continue in the rib
Row 2: work in the basic rib pattern knowing that you will have two knit stitches next to each other in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will purl the two of them together on the next row. 
Row 3: Work in rib until the two center stitches, p2tog, continue in the rib pattern
Row 4: Work in rib pattern
Row 5: Work in rib until 2 stitches before the center stitch, p2tog, kfb (this is the center stitch), p2tog, continue in the rib
Row 6: work in the basic rib pattern knowing that you will have two purl stitches next to each other in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will knit the two of them together on the next row. 
Row 7: Work in rib until the two center stitches, k2tog, continue in the rib pattern
Row 8: Work in rib pattern

Work decrease rows 1-8 until you have 9 stitches on the needle. BO leaving the last stitch on the needle.* Transfer this stitch to a crochet hook. Chain 6 stitches and connect them to the beginning of the BO edge (this makes the button loop). Now start crocheting around the edge. I did 2 single crochet stitches in every other st. Go all the way around the headband, then around the button loop. Secure and cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends and sew a button on the opposite end from the button loop.

Add whatever embellishment you choose. (The one pictured was a simple CO tons of stitches, BO several, knitting 2 in between to make “petals”.) Or I've added a crocheted flower to the Bulky Yarn Version you might like to try.

*The entire crochet border is optional. It gives the edge a bit of a decorative look. But the headband looks fine without it. If you choose not to do it, you may want to add a few more stitches to begin with to make the headband wider. You’ll also need to make a buttonhole on the row before your bind off. If you don’t want to deal with either method of creating a button hole, you could just attach some little strings or ribbon at either end and tie them under your hair to wear. (But I will tell you, the button is quite convenient).