Free Knitting Pattern - Headband Ear Warmer (Thick Yarn Version)

I have written a newer, simpler pattern. Please click HERE or see the sidebar on the right and click on the new pattern. (The decrease is easier) :)


PLEASE NOTE - I AM NOT A CROCHETER SO I DO NOT HAVE A CROCHET VERSION OF THE PATTERN.

1/31/10 UPDATE: There have been a few questions so I'm adding very specific directions for the increase and decrease rows. I've also added some tips HERE. Please let me know if you have any questions. I'm always happy to help!

Headband Earwarmer (Bulky Yarn Version)

Materials:

Size 10 knitting needles

Cascade 109 LE Bulky (just under 1 skein) - This yarn is discontinued and sometimes hard to find--(I had some leftover from my Twilight mittens)--but any Bulky yarn will do. You can adjust the pattern for whatever yarn you choose.

Size J Crochet Hook (optional)*

Button

Guage: 5 st/inch (in the rib pattern)

Abbreviations:

m1B – From the back, lift loop between stitches with the left needle, purl into the front of loop

m1F – From the front, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into the back of loop.

pfb – purl front and back

You  will begin with 7 stitches, increase on the middle stitch on every RS row for 6.25”, knit in pattern 4.5”, then decrease back down--again, always on that middle stitch. 

Directions:

CO 7 st

Row 1 (RS): K1, P1 rib across

Row 2 (WS): P1, K1 across

Row 3: Repeat row 1
Row 4: Repeat row 2


Begin the increase

Row 5: Work in rib until center stitch (on this row it's the 4th stitch), pfb, continue in rib to the end of the row

Row 6: Work in the rib knowing that you will have two knit stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row. 

Row 7: Work in rib until center stitch, m1F, continue in rib to the end of the row

Row 8: Work in the rib pattern

Row 9: Work in rib until center stitch, kfb center st , continue in rib to the end of the row

Row 10: Work in the rib knowing that you will have two purl stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row--again, this is fine as you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row. 

Row 11: Work in rib until the center, m1B, continue in rib to the end of the row.

Row 12: Work in the rib pattern

Repeat rows 5-12 until your work measures 6.25” from the cast on edge. You’ll have 23 stitches on the needle. (If you have a different number of stitches than this, it's fine, but please see my TIPS HERE because the type of decrease you do depends solely on what your middle stitch is--knit or purl. I also always suggest that you end your increase with a row with an odd number of stitches--it makes the first row of the decrease much easier. So if you've got an even number, do one more increase).

Work in the rib pattern for 4.75” (until you have 11” from the cast on edge)

Begin the decrease

Row 1: (THIS ROW IS WORKED ASSUMING YOUR MIDDLE STITCH IS A PURL STITCH, IF IT'S A KNIT STITCH, DO ROWS 5-8, THEN 1-4) Work in rib until 2 stitches before the center stitch, p2tog, kfb (this is the center stitch), p2tog, continue in the rib ( on this row, you've decreased 2 and made 1. This way the decrease follows the increase in shape and size.

Row 2: work in the basic rib pattern knowing that you will have two purl stitches next to each other in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will knit the two of them together on the next row. 

Row 3: Work in rib until the two center stitches, k2tog, continue in the rib pattern
Row 4: Work in rib pattern
Row 5: Work in rib until 2 stitches before the center stitch, k2tog, pfb (this is the center stitch), k2tog, continue in the rib
Row 6: work in the basic rib pattern knowing that you will have two knit stitches next to each other in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will purl the two of them together on the next row. 

Row 7: Work in rib until the two center stitches, p2tog, continue in the rib pattern
Row 8: Work in rib pattern

Work decrease rows 1-8 until you have 7 stitches on the needle. BO leaving the last stitch on the needle. Transfer this stitch to a crochet hook. Chain 4-6 stitches and connect them to the beginning of the BO edge (this makes the button loop so size it according to the size of your button). Now start crocheting around the edge. I did 1 single crochet stitch in every st along the edge. Go all the way around the headband, then around the button loop. Secure and cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.


*The entire crochet border is optional. It gives the edge a bit of a decorative look. But the headband looks fine without it. If you choose not to do it, you may want to add a few more stitches to begin with to make the headband wider and knit a few extra rows in the center to make it a bit longer. You’ll also need to make a buttonhole on the row before your bind off. If you don’t want to deal with either method of creating a button hole, you could just attach some little strings or ribbon at either end and tie them under your hair to wear.

For The Flower:

Large (5 Petal) Flower - Using a J hook, chain 10, join with a SS into first ch to form a ring.

1st Round - (Ch 3, 1 sc into ring) do this 5 times. Join with a sc into first st.

2nd Round - Into each chain loop work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 6 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Fasten off.

Smaller (4 Petal) Flower - Using a J hook, chain 4, join with a ss into first st.

1st Round - (Ch 3, 1 sc into ring) do this 4 times. Join with a sc into first st.

2nd Round - Into each chain loop work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 4 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Fasten off.

Bobble for center - with size 10 knitting needles, CO 1, kfb until you have 4 stitches, k 1 row, p 1 row, k 1 row, p 1 row, k 1 row, do not turn, lift second stitch over the first, then the third and then the fourth, fasten off first stitch. Tie the ends together using the tails, stuff a little if desired (I just used one of the tails) and sew around the edges a bit if needed to form the bobble.

Layer the flower together and attach to the headwrap.