Tips for the Headwrap Patterns

LINKS TO THE PATTERNS:
Free Knitting Pattern Headwrap (thin yarn)

Free Knitting Pattern Headwrap (bulky yarn)
The pattern is also on Ravelry HERE.

TIPS:

• Either pattern is easily adaptable to any type of yarn. I will put the specifics for the thin yarn first and for the bulky yarn in parenthesis. You basically want it to be about an inch wide at either end and about 3" (3.75") wide at the widest part BEFORE the crochet border which will add about 1/4" (1/2") on each side. If you want yours to be wider, cast on a few more stitches, still increasing until you have 7" (6.25") of work, work in the rib with no increase or decrease for 4" (4.75"), then begin your decrease which will mirror your increase.

• Got a big head? or a small one? the 4" (4.75") of straight rib is a good place to add or subtract length. You want your finished knitted piece to be around 18" (17.25") long. Then you'll add the crochet border.

• It's best to CO an odd number of stitches. This saves you a lot of grief in your first increase row. Also, it's a must to end your increase rows with a row of odd numbered stitches. This ensures that your 4" or straight rib will be correct. This also saves you a lot of grief on the first row of your decrease. 

• INCREASE ROW - When your middle 3 stitches are pkp, you will kfb into the k stitch, then on the wrong side when you do the rib pattern, you will work normally in the rib, but purl the two middle stitches, then go on with the rib. This is okay because in the next RS (increase) row, you will make a stitch right between them. Since they are two knit stitches, you will want to create a purl stitch between them. You'll do this with a m1b*. When your middle 3 stitches are kpk, you will pfb into that middle p stitch. Then on the wrong side when you get to the middle two stitches, you will knit both of them. Again, it will work itself out on the next row when you make a stitch between them. Since it will be two purl stitches in a row, you will create a knit stitch between them by m1f**

• DECREASE ROWS - When your middle stitch is a purl stitch (remember we always start our decrease with a row with an odd number of stitches), you will purl the TWO stitches before the middle together (decreasing 1), then kfb on that middle stitch (making 1), then p2tog the TWO stitches after the center most stitch (decreasing 1). So you've decreased 2 and made one, which decreased 1. This way your decrease will mirror the increase. Now on your wrong side you'll have two purl stitches in a row right in the center. That's fine. On the next right side row, you'll simple k2tog. When your middle stitch is a knit stitch, you will knit the two stitches before the middle stitch together, pfb, then k2tog. Again, on your wrong side you'll have two knit stitches together right in the center--it's fine. On the next right side row, you'll p2tog.

• I like to take a contrasting yarn and thread it through the middle stitch (so it shows on both sides) and use this as a stationary marker. Makes for a little less counting. As you go, you can keep moving (and re-threading) the marker or just leave it where it started and trace the line up with your finger. You won't need a marker at all for the middle section so you can just remove it and then re-thread it when you start the decrease.

• If you're not familiar with pfb (purl front and back--purl increase). THIS youtube video is a great help.

• This all may sound complicated, but it's really not. Dive into it and you'll see that it's very intuitive and will make sense once you get going.

Please contact me with any questions, I'm happy to help!!

*m1B – From the back, lift loop between stitches with the left needle, purl into the front of loop (this is an increase that makes a purl stitch and no hole)

**m1F – From the front, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into the back of loop (this is an increase that makes a knit stitch and no hole).


For help with both of these increases, try this link. For m1B, watch the quick video called m1R ON THE PURL SIDE (it's on the left side of the screen). For m1F, watch the video called m1L (main video is the correct one for this project).

Sweet Heart

Using this great tutorial my daughter and I made this fun wreath last night. I don't have a lot of Valentine decorations so I'm always happy to find something fun, quick and cute. This heart wreath certainly fit the bill!

The only thing I had to buy was the foam heart. The rest I had on hand--I LOVE that!

Sewing Saturday

When I saw this tutorial on Make It and Love It, I knew I had to make one! This was so fun. It's being modeled by my daughter, but it's all for me! I'm wearin' it tomorrow to church. :)

Just a couple of tips if you decide to make one:

1. You need 2.5 yards of knit fabric to get the length. The scarf is 80" long and with the bit that you cut off from the end (15") you can cut your ruffle pieces. And with your 2.5 yards you can make 4 of these scarves with a small amount of fabric leftover.

2. I cut the ruffle strips to be 1" instead of 3/4".

3. After sewing around the scarf, I trimmed the edges just a bit to give it a more finished look.

I'm still a total beginner with the sewing machine so if I can make this, anyone can!

Newest Teacher Name Signs

These three all went out this week--two in the mail and one to a teacher at my kids' school who saw others and wanted her own. I love walking through the halls of the kids' school and seeing my name signs hanging outside the doors!

Teacher Name Signs are always available in my bumblebina ETSY shop.

Free Knitting Pattern - Headband Ear Warmer (Thick Yarn Version)

I have written a newer, simpler pattern. Please click HERE or see the sidebar on the right and click on the new pattern. (The decrease is easier) :)


PLEASE NOTE - I AM NOT A CROCHETER SO I DO NOT HAVE A CROCHET VERSION OF THE PATTERN.

1/31/10 UPDATE: There have been a few questions so I'm adding very specific directions for the increase and decrease rows. I've also added some tips HERE. Please let me know if you have any questions. I'm always happy to help!

Headband Earwarmer (Bulky Yarn Version)

Materials:

Size 10 knitting needles

Cascade 109 LE Bulky (just under 1 skein) - This yarn is discontinued and sometimes hard to find--(I had some leftover from my Twilight mittens)--but any Bulky yarn will do. You can adjust the pattern for whatever yarn you choose.

Size J Crochet Hook (optional)*

Button

Guage: 5 st/inch (in the rib pattern)

Abbreviations:

m1B – From the back, lift loop between stitches with the left needle, purl into the front of loop

m1F – From the front, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into the back of loop.

pfb – purl front and back

You  will begin with 7 stitches, increase on the middle stitch on every RS row for 6.25”, knit in pattern 4.5”, then decrease back down--again, always on that middle stitch. 

Directions:

CO 7 st

Row 1 (RS): K1, P1 rib across

Row 2 (WS): P1, K1 across

Row 3: Repeat row 1
Row 4: Repeat row 2


Begin the increase

Row 5: Work in rib until center stitch (on this row it's the 4th stitch), pfb, continue in rib to the end of the row

Row 6: Work in the rib knowing that you will have two knit stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row. 

Row 7: Work in rib until center stitch, m1F, continue in rib to the end of the row

Row 8: Work in the rib pattern

Row 9: Work in rib until center stitch, kfb center st , continue in rib to the end of the row

Row 10: Work in the rib knowing that you will have two purl stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row--again, this is fine as you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row. 

Row 11: Work in rib until the center, m1B, continue in rib to the end of the row.

Row 12: Work in the rib pattern

Repeat rows 5-12 until your work measures 6.25” from the cast on edge. You’ll have 23 stitches on the needle. (If you have a different number of stitches than this, it's fine, but please see my TIPS HERE because the type of decrease you do depends solely on what your middle stitch is--knit or purl. I also always suggest that you end your increase with a row with an odd number of stitches--it makes the first row of the decrease much easier. So if you've got an even number, do one more increase).

Work in the rib pattern for 4.75” (until you have 11” from the cast on edge)

Begin the decrease

Row 1: (THIS ROW IS WORKED ASSUMING YOUR MIDDLE STITCH IS A PURL STITCH, IF IT'S A KNIT STITCH, DO ROWS 5-8, THEN 1-4) Work in rib until 2 stitches before the center stitch, p2tog, kfb (this is the center stitch), p2tog, continue in the rib ( on this row, you've decreased 2 and made 1. This way the decrease follows the increase in shape and size.

Row 2: work in the basic rib pattern knowing that you will have two purl stitches next to each other in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will knit the two of them together on the next row. 

Row 3: Work in rib until the two center stitches, k2tog, continue in the rib pattern
Row 4: Work in rib pattern
Row 5: Work in rib until 2 stitches before the center stitch, k2tog, pfb (this is the center stitch), k2tog, continue in the rib
Row 6: work in the basic rib pattern knowing that you will have two knit stitches next to each other in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will purl the two of them together on the next row. 

Row 7: Work in rib until the two center stitches, p2tog, continue in the rib pattern
Row 8: Work in rib pattern

Work decrease rows 1-8 until you have 7 stitches on the needle. BO leaving the last stitch on the needle. Transfer this stitch to a crochet hook. Chain 4-6 stitches and connect them to the beginning of the BO edge (this makes the button loop so size it according to the size of your button). Now start crocheting around the edge. I did 1 single crochet stitch in every st along the edge. Go all the way around the headband, then around the button loop. Secure and cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends.


*The entire crochet border is optional. It gives the edge a bit of a decorative look. But the headband looks fine without it. If you choose not to do it, you may want to add a few more stitches to begin with to make the headband wider and knit a few extra rows in the center to make it a bit longer. You’ll also need to make a buttonhole on the row before your bind off. If you don’t want to deal with either method of creating a button hole, you could just attach some little strings or ribbon at either end and tie them under your hair to wear.

For The Flower:

Large (5 Petal) Flower - Using a J hook, chain 10, join with a SS into first ch to form a ring.

1st Round - (Ch 3, 1 sc into ring) do this 5 times. Join with a sc into first st.

2nd Round - Into each chain loop work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 6 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Fasten off.

Smaller (4 Petal) Flower - Using a J hook, chain 4, join with a ss into first st.

1st Round - (Ch 3, 1 sc into ring) do this 4 times. Join with a sc into first st.

2nd Round - Into each chain loop work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 4 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Fasten off.

Bobble for center - with size 10 knitting needles, CO 1, kfb until you have 4 stitches, k 1 row, p 1 row, k 1 row, p 1 row, k 1 row, do not turn, lift second stitch over the first, then the third and then the fourth, fasten off first stitch. Tie the ends together using the tails, stuff a little if desired (I just used one of the tails) and sew around the edges a bit if needed to form the bobble.

Layer the flower together and attach to the headwrap. 

Just Finished

This bag was a quick knit. I used Reynolds Lopi and this pattern from Hello Yarn. And then it sat and sat. I always put off sewing the liner since I'm still a nervous seamstress. If my machine behaves, I'm fine, but if not, it's time to lug out the manual and try to figure out what's going one.

So today was the day. Got out this fantastic ticking fabric and went to work on the liner and the flowers.

I am so pleased with how it turned out! Not sure where it's headed--either my bumblebinaknits ETSY shop, a gift or my closet. :)

Update: Bag has SOLD.

Free Knitting Pattern - Headband Ear Warmer

I have written a newer, simpler pattern. Please click HERE or see the sidebar on the right and click on the new pattern. (The decrease is easier) :)

01/09/10 UPDATE: Please note that I have added updated pictures with another flower option (same headwrap--new flower). The large flower was made using Susan B. Anderson's Felted Flower pattern from Itty Bitty Hats.

01/22/10 UPDATE: The gauge for this pattern is 9 st per inch, 6 rows per inch. But it is not crucial. You can always adapt this to whatever yarn you are using by casting on more or fewer stitches. I have also posted a pattern for this headwrap using bulky yarn with a crocheted flower if you're interested.

1/31/10 UPDATE: There have been a few questions so I've added some more explanation to the increase and decrease rows in this pattern. Hope this helps. I've also added some tips HERE.  Please contact me with any questions, I'm always happy to help.

Here is the Ravelry Link to this pattern.

**PLEASE NOTE - I AM NOT A CROCHETER SO I DO NOT HAVE A CROCHET VERSION OF THE PATTERN.

This headband is perfect for those brisk morning walks or for taking the kids to school. It's perfect with a ponytail! Below is more a recipe than a pattern. Please feel free to contact me with any questions and link to pictures if you do make one! My 8 year old daughter is modeling the headband. It's a bit more snug on a grown up head. My head is 22" and this headband fits wonderfully! There is a bit of play with the size as you can place the button where you'll need it to be so it fits your head.

Headband Earwarmer

Materials:

Size 6 US knitting needles

Rowan Wool Cotton (just under 1 skein) - this is a DK yarn

Size J Crochet Hook (optional)*

Button

Small shank button (optional - for embellishment flower)

Finished Size:

22.5" long and 4" wide at widest part

Abbreviations:

m1B – From the back, lift loop between stitches with the left needle, purl into the front of loop (this is a bar increase that makes a purl stitch and no hole)

m1F – From the front, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into the back of loop (this is a bar increase that makes a knit stitch and no hole)

pfb – purl front and back

You will begin with 9 stitches, increase on the middle stitch on every RS row for 7”, knit in pattern 4”, then decrease back down--again, always on that middle stitch--for 7".

IMPORTANT NOTE: Don’t get too caught up in the rib pattern right around the decrease or increase stitches. There are times when you’ll have 2 knit stitches together or 2 purl stitches together. They work themselves out on the next inc. or dec. row. And it’s sort of hidden in the inc. and dec. Stick to the rib as best you can. Let the stitches tell you what they want to be.This all sounds much more complicated than it actually is. Once you get into the knitting, you'll see. (*NOTE: I have added more specific instructions as of 1/31/10)

Directions:

CO 9 st

Row 1 (RS): K1, P1 rib across

Row 2 (WS): P1, K1 across

Row 3: Repeat row 1
Row 4: Repeat row 2


Begin increase
Row 5: Work in rib until center stitch (on this row it is the 5th stitch), kfb center st , continue in rib to the end of the row
Row 6: Work in the rib knowing that you will have two purl stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row. 

Row 7: Work in rib until the center, m1B, continue in rib to the end of the row.
Row 8: Work in the rib pattern

Row 9: Work in rib until center stitch, pfb, continue in rib to the end of the row
Row 10: Work in the rib knowing that you will have two knitl stitches next to each other right in the very center of the row--again, this is fine as you will increase BETWEEN them on the next row. 

Row 11: Work in rib until center stitch, m1F, continue in rib to the end of the row
Row 12: Work in the rib pattern

Repeat rows 5-12 until your work measures 7” from the cast on edge. You’ll have 33 stitches on the needle. (If you have a different number of stitches than this, it's fine, but please see my TIPS HERE because the type of decrease you do depends solely on what your middle stitch is--knit or purl. I also always suggest that you end your increase with a row with an odd number of stitches--it makes the first row of the decrease much easier. So if you've got an even number, do one more increase).

Work in the rib pattern for 4” (until you have 11” from the cast on edge)

Begin the decrease

Row 1 of decrease (RS): (THIS ROW IS WORKED ASSUMING YOUR MIDDLE STITCH IS A KNIT STITCH, IF IT'S A PURL STITCH, DO ROWS 5-8, THEN 1-4) Work in rib until 2 stitches before the center stitch, k2tog, pfb (this is the center stitch), k2tog, continue in the rib
Row 2: work in the basic rib pattern knowing that you will have two knit stitches next to each other in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will purl the two of them together on the next row. 
Row 3: Work in rib until the two center stitches, p2tog, continue in the rib pattern
Row 4: Work in rib pattern
Row 5: Work in rib until 2 stitches before the center stitch, p2tog, kfb (this is the center stitch), p2tog, continue in the rib
Row 6: work in the basic rib pattern knowing that you will have two purl stitches next to each other in the very center of the row--this is fine as you will knit the two of them together on the next row. 
Row 7: Work in rib until the two center stitches, k2tog, continue in the rib pattern
Row 8: Work in rib pattern

Work decrease rows 1-8 until you have 9 stitches on the needle. BO leaving the last stitch on the needle.* Transfer this stitch to a crochet hook. Chain 6 stitches and connect them to the beginning of the BO edge (this makes the button loop). Now start crocheting around the edge. I did 2 single crochet stitches in every other st. Go all the way around the headband, then around the button loop. Secure and cut yarn and tie off. Weave in all ends and sew a button on the opposite end from the button loop.

Add whatever embellishment you choose. (The one pictured was a simple CO tons of stitches, BO several, knitting 2 in between to make “petals”.) Or I've added a crocheted flower to the Bulky Yarn Version you might like to try.

*The entire crochet border is optional. It gives the edge a bit of a decorative look. But the headband looks fine without it. If you choose not to do it, you may want to add a few more stitches to begin with to make the headband wider. You’ll also need to make a buttonhole on the row before your bind off. If you don’t want to deal with either method of creating a button hole, you could just attach some little strings or ribbon at either end and tie them under your hair to wear. (But I will tell you, the button is quite convenient).

IF Renewal

Claire, 5" x 4.5" , Original block print and acrylics on MDF (AVAILABLE)

I've been out of the studio for a while--Christmas, you know how it is! But I feel like a creative renewal will be coming soon. Most likely after the kids go back to school. :)